Posted 04 January 2013 - 11:48 AM
DC's a government town, so don’t expect New York. But it’s the government town, so it still has a buzz if you like that kind of thing.
There are almost too many great museums etc to take in, but you can’t go far wrong with the Air & Space, and the Museum of American History is pretty good too – it has the original star-spangled banner, which is incredible – and the Newseum, which is a relative newcomer.
You’ll probably end up doing Georgetown – which is classic WASP/politico Washington - and maybe Adams Morgan (check out The Black Squirrel on 18th St for beer) and Dupont Circle. Go for weekend brunch at Kramerbooks’ Afterwords cafe, just off Dupont – it’s far from the best brunch in the city, but it’s a DC institution (and you get to browse in a great bookstore while you wait for a table). Kramerbooks also has a separate bar, with some great beers. Nothing like going out to buy a book and getting drunk at the same time.
The 14th Street corridor is an increasingly good area at the moment - north of Thomas Circle, up to U Street. It’s a big stretch of road, heading north. It used to be a real skid row area, but the whole Logan Circile neighbourhood is changing now, with shops, restaurants, cafes etc. If you like craft beers, there’s an excellent place on 14th Street called Churchkey – an upstairs bar, with American bar food. It gets busy, but it’s got a great selection. There’s also a higher-end restaurant on the ground floor called Birch & Barley. If you can grab a booth at Churchkey, you’re sorted for the night. I also like Masa further up on 14th Street – it’s a fashionable hangout (Obama staffers and younger republicans), bit pricey, but excellent food and good atmosphere.
U Street is changing too – there’s some good places up there now, though they might be a touch ‘hip’ for your tastes. But if you like to hang out in black areas and not just white areas, then U Street is the most famous strip, despite going through some very tough times since the race riots in the 60s. The most famous place to visit is Ben’s Chili Bowl – it’s DC’s most famous black restaurant, and a campaign stop-off. The original Busboys & Poets is also at 14th & V, just up from U Street. Also The Gibson on 14th, near U Street, for a late night speakeasy bar (owned by the Thievery Corporation guys).
For music, I’m guessing somewhere like Blues Alley in Georgetown would probably suit you, just off the main drag M Street. The sad thing about DC is that the city’s authentic and unique black sound - go-go music – is so hard for whites/tourists to track down. But if you do get the chance, check it out - go-go is a live experience, and there’s nothing like a three-hour non-stop go-go bomb being dropped.
The most tiring thing about DC is getting around. You might find it too cold at the moment, but the bikeshare scheme is absolutely fantastic in a place like DC – US cities are so easy to navigate, and bike riding is much, much less scary than in the UK. The bikes are easily the best way of seeing DC in a limited time – getting to places like Georgetown which aren’t on the Metro, and especially getting around the Mall (which is much further to walk than most tourists imagine). Just make sure you re-dock within the thirty minute window and pick up a new bike if you want to go further, or it will start to charge extra. If you really want to be a tourist there are Segway tours of the Mall for those who don’t like walking too much.
And you'll enjoy the train the NYC - if you're a fan of The Wire you'll get to see the infamous row houses in Baltimore....
