The Photography Thread

[Padge]

A first attempt at motorsport yesterday. A good opportunity to experiment with settings and what worked and what didn't, I learned loads having the entire day to wonder around the course, try different vantages points and enjoy mixing my love of bikes & photography!

 

Cock o'the North by 77gazza, on Flickr

 

Cock o'the North by 77gazza, on Flickr

 

Cock o'the North by 77gazza, on Flickr

 

Cock o'the North by 77gazza, on Flickr

 

Good first effort, in the first and last the space is on the wrong sidde of the bike, they are driving out of frame.

 

The third has great timing, but I'd crop it tighter removing the road at the bottom, its a bit unbalanced with the tight crop at the top and all that space at the bottom.

[gingerjon]

 the wrong sidde of the bike, they are driving out of frame.

 

Don't listen to him!  Don't listen to him!

 

(Okay, do.  A bit.  But not too much.)

 

For mine, the last one works best because the sweep and texture of the road and the white of the eyes give an indication of the speed and determination going on.

[gazza77]

Cheers for the feedback both.

 

Shot 1 - agree entirely with the framing comments Padge.

 

Shot 2 - the chairs are a bit more difficult to frame with being wider, but I'm fairly happy with how well this works from this angle.

 

Shot 3 - this is the only one that I have actually cropped, although not from the top as I only just got the rider in frame. He was the only one that was getting that sort of height over the jump, so I wsa struggling to capture it. I see what you mean with the road at the bottom Padge, however I felt that it needed a bit of road to land on so to speak. A better capture at the original point would have helped however, I see what you are getting at and this one in particular is one of the lessons to learn and work on. It really needed to be shot in portrait, but I was using my monopod and hadn't thought to take my ball head off my tripod to enable this. Also a lesson learned.

 

Shot 4 - I see what you mean again Padge, however this to me is a slightly different one to the first, as much more over to the left of the shot would have meant more of a messy and distracting background or a squarer crop which I'm not sure would have worked. Again, portrait may have worked better due to the limited amount of scope for manouvre at that particular vantage point, again, lessons learned.

 

I took about 400 shots in all, which I've whittled down to just under 200 that are reasonably sharp. A few more of the better ones are on my flickr account. I'm going to the Manx GP/Classic TT at the end of August, so this was all good experience for then, where I hope to get plenty of good shots and technique practise, utilising what I learned on Saturday.

[my missus]

couldn't resist getting a few snaps of this beautiful lake.

Edited July 26, 2013 by my missus

[my missus]

Edited July 26, 2013 by my missus

[Gary Coyle]

A couple from yesterday at Lulworth Cove Dorset, first is a stitched Pano, both taken with Nikon d800 and Nikon 16-35mm f/4 VR

Edited July 29, 2013 by Gary Coyle

[Bleep1673]

DSC02771 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

DSC02799 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

DSC02792 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

DSC02791 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

Opinions please?

[Kenilworth Tiger]

[gazza77]

DSC02771 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

DSC02799 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

DSC02792 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

DSC02791 by Bleep1673, on Flickr

Opinions please?

I like the composition of them, no 4 is the best imo. They don't seem quite as sharp as they could be either, and the colours seem a little flat. Perhaps a little editing tweak may resolve the latter issue.

[Red Willow]

I have an issue with one of my lens. An error message comes up that tells me to clean the lens contacts. I assume the contacts are the brass things on the rim. I have cleaned then but the message still appears. I know it isn't the camera as the message appears on both cameras. It is a zoom lens and the problem seems to occur at close to the max.

 

Any suggestions?

 

The lens isn't that expensive and I m also contemplating replacing it when funds allow.

[Gary Coyle]

My very first long exposure, When i say long i mean all of 2 seconds, was during good light, shot at f/32 and only had an ND4 and a CPL to help me out, ISO 100.

[gazza77]

My very first long exposure, When i say long i mean all of 2 seconds, was during good light, shot at f/32 and only had an ND4 and a CPL to help me out, ISO 100.

Nice. You must have steady hands.  

[marklaspalmas]

I don't browse this thread often enough. Some smashing photos.

[bulldog_paddy]

One from the weekend, Vulcan Bomber open day at Southend Airport, Lots of Sun but had my anorak :-) 

 

[Futtocks]

One from the weekend, Vulcan Bomber open day at Southend Airport, Lots of Sun but had my anorak :-) 

 

Blimey! That's a good shot!  

[bulldog_paddy]

Blimey! That's a good shot!

Thanks, HDR'd to within an inch of its life so totally disqualifying myself from any of the TRL comps but pleased with it

[Futtocks]

Thanks, HDR'd to within an inch of its life so totally disqualifying myself from any of the TRL comps but pleased with it

There's a time and a place for post-processing - nothing wrong with it if it gives a good effect.

[my missus]

makes me feel nauseous

[Padge]

My very first long exposure, When i say long i mean all of 2 seconds, was during good light, shot at f/32 and only had an ND4 and a CPL to help me out, ISO 100.

Have you lifted the actual Durdle Door, there seems to be a slight light rim around it particularly around the sky (I'm on a poor display so it could be that), 

[Gary Coyle]

Other than an increase to the shadows on the rock itself and a general levels adjust nothing else, what did you mean "lifted"

[Padge]

Other than an increase to the shadows on the rock itself and a general levels adjust nothing else, what did you mean "lifted"

Brightened is what I mean, not lifted as in nicked.

 

When you brighten something selectively you can some time get a bleeding into the area around depending on your feathering etc.

 

You seem to have a brightness fringe that has bled into the sky.

[Larry the Leit]

Brightened is what I mean, not lifted as in nicked.

When you brighten something selectively you can some time get a bleeding into the area around depending on your feathering etc.

You seem to have a brightness fringe that has bled into the sky.

Now you say it, now I see it. Why is this? Is it a software fault/issue/feature and is it common to all/most packages? Edited August 17, 2013 by Larry the Leit

[Padge]

Now you say it, now I see it. Why is this? Is it a software fault/issue/feature and is it common to all/most packages?

Its down to the skill of the processing, if you simply select the area to lighten you will finish up with missed bits, and over lapping bits. In that case you get bits that shouldn't be brightened lifted and bits that should be lightened missed. To overcome this you can feather the edge so at the edge of the selected area the adjustment fades. This facility is common to almost allow editing tools.

 

The problem with that is that it can create halos if the amount of change is quite strong.

 

Using layers and editing individual elements on each layer can help, you then have to select the right blending mode.

 

Another way to overcome the halo effect is to use dodge and burn to  the edges (depending on whether you need to darken or lighten the edge) to balance up the lightened/darkend part of the image.

 

It appears to me that the Durdledoor picture had the rock face selected and then feathered, brightness was applied, levels may have been better and adjusting the mid-tones to maintain the better contrast and then finally the edge where necessary should have had a slight dodge applied to reduce the exposure.

 

God that all sounds geeky.

[Larry the Leit]

Its down to the skill of the processing, if you simply select the area to lighten you will finish up with missed bits, and over lapping bits. In that case you get bits that shouldn't be brightened lifted and bits that should be lightened missed. To overcome this you can feather the edge so at the edge of the selected area the adjustment fades. This facility is common to almost allow editing tools.

The problem with that is that it can create halos if the amount of change is quite strong.

Using layers and editing individual elements on each layer can help, you then have to select the right blending mode.

Another way to overcome the halo effect is to use dodge and burn to the edges (depending on whether you need to darken or lighten the edge) to balance up the lightened/darkend part of the image.

It appears to me that the Durdledoor picture had the rock face selected and then feathered, brightness was applied, levels may have been better and adjusting the mid-tones to maintain the better contrast and then finally the edge where necessary should have had a slight dodge applied to reduce the exposure.

God that all sounds geeky.

I see. Thanks.

[Bob8]

We had a social documentary photographer cover the Denmark vs Norway game, as our normal sports photographer was not able to make it.  It is a very interesting set of photos, that I urge you to check out

https://www.facebook.com/DanmarkRugbyLeague